March 19 (Bloomberg) -- Eminem's ``Stan'' was playing loudly when I arrived at Babbo. It's not often you dine to a song about a guy murdering his pregnant girlfriend and killing himself.

Babbo is that kind of place: Not in terms of drug-crazed domestic violence, but in blood-and-guts and attitude. If you have a hankering for warm lamb's tongue vinaigrette, pig-foot Milanese or beef cheek ravioli, this famous New York venue may be just the place for you.

You might hear stories of people waiting weeks for a table. I got one on a couple of days' notice by the simple (and painful) expedient of agreeing to eat at 11:15 p.m., when Babbo is hopping like a nightclub. Actually, the place was also hopping at 6:30 p.m., when I returned a week later.

Chef Mario Batali opened Babbo Ristorante e Enoteca, with business partner Joseph Bastianich, in 1998. It's still attracting the crowds, drawn by Batali's larger-than-life cooking and personality. He trained under the British chef Marco Pierre White and is famed for his television show ``Molto Mario.''

Babbo only seats 90 and there's usually a crowd at the bar, waiting for a table or enjoying the scene. Over a couple of meals, I heard Crosby, Stills and Nash extol the pleasures of railroad travel in North Africa and Mick Jagger liken himself to a small blood-colored chicken. I dislike music in restaurants, but I was swept along by the energy of Babbo and by the food.

Goose-Liver Ravioli

Take a dish such as goose-liver ravioli with balsamic vinegar and brown butter. It takes a strong sauce to stand up to a flavor as assertive as that of liver, and Babbo supplies it with a sweet and sticky reduction that is a marvelous match.

One of my guests bravely went for the pig foot, with rice and arugula. I'm not sure either of us was expecting the fat, crispy disc that showed up. Fortunately, those of a timid disposition can eat very well indeed at Babbo, where barbecued squab is tender and soft and there are great desserts, such as Chocolate-Chestnut Budino with Chestnut Gelato.

If late dining slots don't suit your schedule or your digestion, some tables are saved for walk-ins each night. I got one this way, though my guest and I also had a late booking. He went outside and called to cancel that one, only to be busted by the maitre d' on his way back in. The maitre d' was amused by the subterfuge, when I had feared expulsion. I have no complaints about the service at Babbo, though it can be a tad brusque.

Pasta Tasting

The pasta tasting menu is well worth trying, especially if you take the matching wines. Any reader of ``Heat,'' Bill Buford's homage to Batali, may keenly anticipate trying his cooking. The image that stuck in my mind is that a woman's navel was the inspiration for tortellini, but I also remember the chef's ruminations on pasta, which helped steer me to that menu.

The first course is black tagliatelle with parsnips and pancetta, paired with 2006 Langhe Bianco ``Anas-Cetta'' Cogno. The pasta is so succulent, you can have multiple ``I'll have what she's having'' moments long before dessert. Everything tastes fresh and well-balanced. Alas, there's no showing for tortellini.

Garganelli With ``Funghi Trifolati'' features rolled pasta with thinly sliced truffled mushrooms and herbs. It is simple and brilliant.

Even the beets in the Casunzei With Poppy Seeds didn't cool my ardor. (I don't like beets.) The Domingo's Pyramids with Passato di Pomodoro -- beef parcels in a tomato sauce -- were rich, beefy and earthy, like the 2003 Lagrein Casata Monfort (from Trentino) red wine that accompanies them. By the time I'd reached the fifth course of Pappardelle Bolognese (paired with 2002 ``Ajana'' Deiana), I was in pasta ecstasy.

Pastry Balls

The servings are small, so there's room for the three dessert courses, starting with the ``Fritelle di Caciotta'' -- pastry balls with cheese -- served with figs and honey. This is a sweet and unusual cheese dish and is followed by another treat, the ``Fior di Latte'' With Raspberry Vincotto. This milk dessert in a cup features a sweet vinegar, similar to balsamic. The meal ends with chestnut cake and espresso gelato. What a treat.

Our dinner for two -- including several selections from Babbo's extensive and irresistible list of wines by the glass -- was $312 including tax and tip.

This was the most enjoyable of almost 30 meals I enjoyed in a two-week ``Super Size Me'' swing through some of New York City's finest restaurants and burger bars.

When it comes to Babbo, do believe the hype.

The Bloomberg Questions

Cost? The pasta menu is $69; wine pairings adds $50. Most main courses are $24-$29.

Sound level? Exceedingly high.

Date place? Perfect for that special someone with a big appetite for fine Italian food and loud music.

Inside tip? Just show up.

Special feature? You can't stop the music.

Private rooms? No.

Will I be back? Certainly.

Babbo is at 110 Waverly Place, Greenwich Village. Information: +1-212-777-0303; http://www.babbonyc.com/home.html.

Rating: ***

What the Stars Mean

****           Incomparable food, service, ambience.
***            First-class of its kind.
**             Good, reliable.
*              Fair.
(no stars)     Poor.

(Richard Vines is London food critic for Bloomberg News. The opinions expressed are his own.)

To contact the writer of this review: Richard Vines in London at rvines@bloomberg.net.

Last Updated: March 19, 2008 00:01 EDT