May 28 (Bloomberg) -- Wildwood Barbeque serves some of Manhattan's best brisket. And perhaps it will smoke the best ribs in Iowa one day. Stephen Hanson doesn't like just one of anything.

If it works, copy it. That's the Hanson formula. His B.R. Guest restaurant group has two each of Blue Water Grill and Ruby Foo's; and four of Dos Caminos.

The empire will expand. Last year, B.R. Guest partnered with Barry Sternlicht's Starwood Capital Group LLC, a private-equity investment firm, to build a ``global portfolio'' of restaurants, through ``organic growth'' and ``acquisitions,'' says the press release.

Can you taste the dealmaking in Wildwood's pulled pork? Thankfully, no. But a big-business way of doing things can be sensed elsewhere.

Call to make a reservation and you're greeted by an automated operator. The electronic greeting tells you Wildwood is ``the first barbecue restaurant in the world serving all natural meats.'' Apparently, we've all been eating artificial ribs.

The food is overseen by a ``corporate pit master'' and drinks come courtesy of a ``corporate mixologist,'' says Wildwood's Web site. A corporate menu tries to please everyone. I can think of no other way to explain the presence of turkey Cobb at a smokehouse. Or the chopped salad and fish sandwich. Even worse: grilled chicken with goat cheese and spinach. This ain't Chez Panisse!

Oh, and the ubiquitous David Rockwell is the designer. Better not spill your hot sauce. This is Park Avenue South, after all.

My advice: Ignore such frou-frou and skip the cramped dining room. Sit at the spacious bar, watch the Yankees on the flat screens, knock back a few boozy mint juleps and eat the serious meats.

Prison?

The menu says your brisket has been ``hand rubbed'' by ``Big Lou.'' Sounds like a jailhouse hazing doesn't it? Don't worry, Lou Elrose is the chef. We last saw him at Hill Country -- one of New York's best barbecue huts. At Wildwood, his brisket is even better. I ordered it at 10:30 p.m., risking the possibility of dry, day-old beef. My fears were unfounded.

A thin strip of fat flanked each slice. A pink ring imparted good post-oak flavor. It was all so moist and marbled the meat nearly came apart like an accordion.

Pulled pork? Lightly smoky with good piggy flavor. Dry rubbed ribs were tasty yet should have been a tad heftier. Baby back ribs were sticky and not too sweet. Fried chicken wings were insipid and overcooked. A thigh had good smoke, a sweet apricot glaze.

Avoid lamb ribs -- almost entirely fat. And the sausages taste too much like kielbasa.

Less Food!

One suggestion for Hanson: Consider offering meat by the quarter or half-pound, as at Hill Country, instead of requiring set portions. Sometimes you want less than a half rack. Still, that's a small gripe. With brisket this good, I'm already rooting for expansion.

Wildwood Barbeque is at 225 Park Avenue South, at 18th Street. Information: +1-212-533-2500; http://www.brguestrestaurants.com.

Mexican

Here's a funny story about good restaurants with bad names.

There used to be a West Village eatery called BarFry. It specialized in fried fare. Tough sell. The most successful menu items, as it turned out, were not fried. BarFry closed.

Cabrito took over the space. It's a Mexican joint that specializes in cabrito -- baby goat. Another tough sell. But you can have a very good meal here -- as long as you don't eat the baby goat. So it goes.

Unlike BarFry, Cabrito is packed. To understand why, try the slightly funky beef tongue with piquant tomatillo sauce. Even better: not-too-greasy chorizo. Or fat, flaky, fried cod tacos. Order heady chopped pork, then wrap in tortillas. Wash them all down with rum-spiked ginger beer. The watermelon juice with mescal goes down just as easy.

The space is dark, cramped and loud. It's Like La Esquina without the attitude. Don't get the guacamole (bland), the refried beans (insipid and looks like cat food), the goat (not enough for $23) or the beef rib (fibrous, almost inedible).

Just eat tacos and drink.

Cabrito is at 50 Carmine St., near Bedford. Information: +1- 212-929-5050.

(Ryan Sutton writes about New York City restaurants for Bloomberg News. The opinions expressed are his own.)

To contact the writer of this review: Ryan Sutton in New York at rsutton1@bloomberg.net.

Last Updated: May 28, 2008 00:01 EDT