Jan. 21 (Bloomberg) -- The Ciprianis should be banished from the Rainbow Room. They should apologize for desecrating one of Manhattan’s great sky-high vistas with sky-high prices for airline food.

My crummy three-course dinner for two cost $621, including drinks.

As it turns out, I may get my wish -- minus the apology. Earlier this month, landlord Tishman Speyer Properties LP served the Ciprianis with an eviction notice, claiming they hadn’t paid rent. The Ciprianis countersued, and a judge ordered the restaurant to remain open at least until Jan. 27.

Before you think about paying a farewell visit, however, let me recount two recent meals, one at the bar, the other for dinner and dancing.

The art deco landmark, which opened in 1934, sits atop Midtown’s 30 Rockefeller Plaza. The elevator ride to the 65th floor makes your ears pop. It lets you out into a hallway, where you’re greeted by a host.

Then you see the view. You see the skyscrapers: The Empire State building. The Bank of America building. The Chrysler building. The Citigroup Center. The Conde Nast building. Floor- to-ceiling windows frame the city like a life-size museum exhibit.

Then you see the Cipriani name and logos. On the bar napkins. On the menus. They want you to remember who runs this place. When you see the prices, you won’t forget.

Great Martinis

“House” wines are $15.50 a glass. “Premium” selections, including Beringer White Zinfandel, cost $20.50. (A bottle of this stuff retails for about $5.99.)

Daiquiris are $20.50, Martinis $21.50. To be fair, it’s a good daiquiri; with fresh, tangy lime. And it’s a great Martini, icy cold with spicy juniper notes exploding on your tongue.

The Ciprianis, citing the economy, have closed the Rainbow Grill restaurant. Instead, light a la carte fare is available in the bar area. Yes, the space has always been more about the view and the prices will always be high. But nothing excuses this food, which ranges from mediocre to miserable.

Oysters on the $44 seafood platter tasted foul. Shrimp were overcooked. Crabs were impossible to crack. Is there a cracker available?

“No.”

A chicken club sandwich, no better or worse than at a local deli, costs $24. Crispy onions had a musty aftertaste reminiscent of attic dust. Even the undersalted bar nuts were lousy.

Prom Date

Dinner and dancing, offered every other week or so, is like your senior prom, which is another way of saying an excuse to get dressed up for great dancing and an awful dinner. And there are few singles here -- that means no shady types try to steal your date.

Patrons approach the dance hall, only to be sent back to the coat room (down the hall, to the right) by a humorless host in a frayed tux. Better follow the rules.

Couples tango and waltz. A live band plays. There is canoodling in front of the killer view of the city. We were led to the back of the bustling room, near the wait-service stand. Pans clashed. Servers dropped stuff. We shouted at them in a vain attempt to order more drinks. They ignored us.

Pumpkin cannelloni tasted of pasty canned baby food and mushy pasta. Terrible. A passable tuna tartare was spicy and cool. Broiled lobster had good oceanic flavor -- it’s hard to screw up lobster.

Filet mignon begged comparison to a version I had during a transatlantic flight to Moscow in 1999. Crepes were soggy and an apple tart tasted like cardboard.

$25 Snapshot

Cost? $200 per person for three courses, drinks not included. A photographer offers to take your picture. For $25.

Then the captain approaches. He tells you a 20 percent gratuity will be added and reminds you there’s space on the bill for a “captain’s tip.” No way -- but even after you stiff him, you will have spent about $513 for two before drinks.

Sure, you want to fall in love with the Rainbow Room while dancing to “Moonlight Serenade.” The band should come back. The patrons should come back. But the Ciprianis, who continue to offer high-priced amateur hospitality after a decade at the helm, should leave.

The Rainbow Room is at 30 Rockefeller Plaza at 49th Street. Information: +1-212-632-5000.

(Ryan Sutton writes about New York City restaurants for Bloomberg News. The opinions expressed are his own.)

To contact the writer of this column: Ryan Sutton in New York at rsutton1@bloomberg.net.

Last Updated: January 21, 2009 00:01 EST