June 5 (Bloomberg) -- How long would you stand in line for a scoop of gelato?

We waited 25 minutes.

Welcome to Grom on Manhattan's Upper West Side. It's the first U.S. outpost of the Italian ice cream chain.

The whole affair is like a trip to Disney World. That means high prices and long lines in exchange for a brief, sugary experience.

I polished off a tiny scoop of yogurt gelato in 60 seconds. It cost $4.75. Then I devoured a thimbleful of zabaglione- flavored frozen cream in just as much time.

Say what you will about Grom's inconveniences. The gelato is stellar.

Blame fellow patrons for delays. Most everyone samples two or three flavors before settling on a pricey pick. And after my long wait, I too made sure to get something for free. A quick bite of fiordilatte -- milk-and-cream flavored -- yielded a rich, almost tangy mouthfeel.

Traditionally, gelato has less butterfat than ice cream does, and less air whipped in as well. The result is dense and rich. The Grom difference comes from its intense concentration of individual flavors.

My smidgen of yogurt tasted like the tart product it's supposed to be, not some low-fat alternative. And the zabaglione finishes with that signature alcohol burn you get from real Marsala. Try the pistachio. This isn't gelato, you declare. It's a frozen nut butter.

Italian Ingredients

The pistachios come from Italy, as do many of the chain's ingredients. The gelato base is made in Italy, then exported to New York. For extra heft, Grom uses egg yolks in some of its creams.

But before you invest time and money, understand that this is gelato their way, not your way. No sprinkles. No gummy-bear toppings. No cookie-dough milkshakes. No American Express.

If you prefer the American way, go seek refuge at the Mister Softee truck a few blocks south. There's no line for soft-serve.

Want Grom-to-go? Styrofoam containers start at $8. Cones or cups are $4.75 small, $5.75 medium, $6.75 large.

Grom is at 2165 Broadway, between 75th and 76th streets. Information +1-646-290-7233 or http://www.grom.it.

Downtown `Speakeasy'

At a quaint little spot in New York's East Village, the cocktails cost $11. The thongs cost $15.

I beg your pardon?

That's right, thongs. Or more specifically, ``Thong, thong, thong, thong, thong,'' a receptionist sang, quoting the ``Thong Song'' by Sisqo.

This is Crif Dogs. This is PDT lounge.

Crif Dogs is a shack where stoners feast on deep-fried sausages. Lingerie for sale is framed against a wall. The undergarments picture a cartoon hot dog.

PDT is a new, clandestine lounge. It stands for Please Don't Tell. It's accessible via a telephone booth in Crif Dogs.

Enter the booth, pick up the receiver then press the buzzer. A hidden door opens, revealing an upscale woodsy den. Scattered about the room are an owl, jackalope, deer and other taxidermied critters whose meat probably makes hot dogs everywhere taste better.

White lights shine from beneath the bar, lending an eerie glow. In two visits, I watched a crowd of suits and T-shirts sip cocktails from Spiegelau stems to the tune of OutKast, Mos Def and other soft beats.

Try an Astoria Bianco.

Vintage Drinks

Two parts Tanqueray gin, one part Italian white vermouth. Orange bitters. Shake over ice, strain into a coupe. It's one of Jim Meehan's signature cocktails. The consultant, who also works for Gramercy Tavern and Pegu Club, is responsible for the PDT list.

The $11 price is cheap for classic, refined cocktails. The G&T comes with house-made tonic. Daiquiris are Hemingway-style, with grapefruit juice and Maraschino liqueur. Bartenders around town have been making this drink a bit sweeter than the original. Here, it's strong and sour.

The Trident is a riff on the Negroni. Instead of gin, Campari and sweet vermouth, you get Krogstad aquavit, Cynar and manzanilla sherry. A few dashes of peach bitters finish things off. The Trident isn't as dark or tannic as its Italian cousin, and it sports a dry chocolate finish.

Those cocoa notes also appear in the rarely seen Up-to- Date; it has manzanilla too, mixed with Wild Turkey rye (the base of the drink) and Grand Marnier, to help sweeten the untamed turkey.

Hungry? PDT serves those heart-stopping Crif Dogs. My wiener was wrapped in bacon, fried in vegetable shortening, then covered with American cheese and a fried egg. The whole mess is placed in a split roll. Try one. Just one.

Wednesday night drinks for two, which included two cocktails each, a burger and a dog, cost $58.

PDT is at 113 St. Mark's Place, between First Avenue and Avenue A. Information: +1-212-614-0386 or http://www.pdtnyc.com.

(Ryan Sutton is a writer for Bloomberg News. The opinions expressed are his own.)

To contact the writer of this story: Ryan Sutton in New York at rsutton1@bloomberg.net.

Last Updated: June 5, 2007 00:02 EDT