Nov. 27 (Bloomberg) -- Italian food is no longer just Italian food. It needs further explanation.

At least 15 new pasta spots have opened in Manhattan this year. Can you distinguish among them?

There's small-bites Italian (Centro Vinoteca, Bar Stuzzichini, Bacaro); imported-from-Brooklyn Italian (Aurora, Lunetta); tongue-twister Italian (Accademia di Vino); Italian posing as fancy French (Fiamma, Insieme); Italian no longer posing as fancy French (Alto); Italian crossed with French (Nizza, Bobo); and Italian crossed with Japanese (Natsumi, Dieci).

Then there's designer-jeans Italian. Club members include Bobo (not-so-good), Morandi (good) and the newest entrant, the small, dimly lit Dell'Anima (very good).

Better bring a fancy watch to Dell'Anima. Or whatever it takes to avoid the three isolated tables in back, behind the open kitchen and trash bin, where I watched the chef dump an unsuccessful dish. Ask for a soft, black banquette instead.

Like Bobo and Morandi, Dell'Anima boasts a West Village location, boutique patrons and royal libations -- the latter come courtesy of Dale DeGroff, self-proclaimed ``King of Cocktails.''

The Negroni -- gin, sweet vermouth and Campari -- is one of my favorite drinks, but its opaque astringency isn't for everyone. Enter DeGroff. He uses Carpano Antica, an Italian vermouth, and adds roasted orange. Result: things are still bitter, yet bright and citrusy, with a luscious mouth-feel.

Liquid Food

Not pungent enough? The Palermo, a Manhattan spiked with Averna bitters, could challenge the most experienced drinkers.

Their version of the Aviation -- gin, maraschino, lemon juice -- gets muddled cherries, adding fragrant complexity to this historically underrated drink. In another potable, bourbon, cranberry syrup and orange juice join forces to provide a cool autumn burn. It's like a fireplace extinguished by snow.

Yes, you can eat here too. Chef Gabriel Thompson's pedigree is fancy and formal (he hails from Del Posto and Le Bernardin), but his fare is simple and straightforward.

Start with bruschetta. Creamy scrambled eggs mingle with salty sopressata. Raisins soak up red wine and mustard grain. Spoon it all over olive-oiled bread.

Move on to antipasti. Sweetbreads sop up a lemon caper sauce. Meaty, grilled octopus is lanced onto a kebab. So are silky scallops; they're wrapped in crisp grape leaves for a brilliant textural contrast.

Time for pasta. Order half portions. Life-changing Bolognese (veal, beef and pork) coats al dente tagliatelle. The essence of the sea impregnates toothsome squid ink spaghetti.

Solid Food

Don't quit yet. Try the devil's chicken. Smoky Spanish paprika coats the fowl. The moist bird must have had chorizo as its final meal.

Our wild boar was overcooked. No matter. The rich, chocolatey braising liquid paired well with creamy polenta.

Keep on fighting. Make room for dessert. House-infused grappas balance the sting of alcohol and fragrance of fruit -- apples and raisins rarely smell so powerful yet taste so dry.

For something sweeter, try the ladyfinger custard.

Dinner for two plus cocktails cost $194. Dessert plus a flight of grappa was $25.

Dell'Anima is at 38 Eighth Ave., at Jane Street. Information: +1-212-366-6633.

Movin' Up

Lunetta is another excuse to avoid Brooklyn.

Sorry, Brooklyn. I love you too.

Chef Adam Shepard opened his flagship in Boerum Hill last year. Now he's set up a tasty outpost across the river in Manhattan's Flatiron district.

Be prepared to shout. High ceilings, marble tables and other hard surfaces make for poor listening. This is Italy circa 10,000 B.C., before the discovery of tablecloths or carpeting.

Come hungry and work through each course. Bruschetta are larger than at Dell'Anima. A single order will suffice. Homemade ricotta with honey and hazelnuts could qualify as dessert.

Sample the signature mezzalune. The pasta crescents are filled with pumpkin, spiked with sage and finished with amaretti cookies. They're just as good as the version I tried at the Michelin-starred A Voce.

``Just to let you know, there are no tomatoes in the Bolognese.'' I heard that from two separate servers, enunciated with an air of solemnity, as if to let me know this isn't Chef Boyardee.

The sauce is quite good. The lovable funk of pork spare ribs and beef short ribs permeates your mouth. If only it actually coated the tagliatelle. Tomato sauce (gasp!) would actually help.

Airy Bounce

Porchetta? Sure. A mound of coriander-spiced belly is chewy on the outside, silky within. Sweet meatballs sported an airy bounce -- likely from breadcrumbs, but a spokeswoman for Lunetta begged to differ.

``The fluff comes from love not crumbs,'' she wrote.

Our veal saltimbocca was tough and livery. We stopped eating after a few bites. We preferred the sour tang in buttermilk panna cotta. Skip the gritty cheesecake.

Dinner for two plus wine cost $170.

Lunetta is at 920 Broadway at 21st Street. Information: +1-212-533-3663.

(Ryan Sutton is a writer for Bloomberg News. The opinions expressed are his own.)

To contact the writer of this story: Ryan Sutton in New York at rsutton1@bloomberg.net.

Last Updated: November 27, 2007 00:04 EST