July 26 (Bloomberg) -- For newcomers to the Parisian culinary catwalk, Apicius struts all the right ingredients.

It's housed in the grounds of an early-18th-century chateau off the Champs Elysees, takes its name from an ancient Roman chef and for starters serves up an exotic selection of mollusks and crustaceans and an assortment of frog soups and fillets.

Traditional French main courses, the usual rota of ducks, chickens and meats, are prepared with an oriental flair by Jean- Pierre Vigato, the restaurant's chef and proprietor.

Vigato's rendition of the staple steak a la Lyonnaise fuses hearty French fare with the tang of a Vietnamese grill. Carbonized on one side and wading rare in a frothy tarragon sauce, the 100 euro ($127) steak feeds two and can be cut with a fork.

Experienced ketchup lovers will be enthralled with the fluffy sea-ray Tutti-Frutti de Ketchup slathered in capers. Chocolate fans won't hesitate to order two portions of the Souffle au Chocolat et Chantilly Sans Sucre. The wedges of raspberry pralines served with coffee are another highlight.

``The food is excellent and the sauces are superb,'' says the French stage actress Judith Magre, biting into a potato charlotte shingled with a coating of Oscietre caviar to celebrate a record third Moliere award for best actress in France.

``Too bad about the wine,'' adds Magre, a lover of gourmet food, who has come along to help assess the restaurant.

And that's where the curtain drops on Apicius.

It's no secret that restaurants everywhere inflate the cost of a bottle of wine, particularly illustrious vintages such as the 1988 Echezeaux Grand Cru from Domaine Jayer-Gilles (344 euros) poured by a sommelier who saw nothing amiss in serving a majestic Burgundy as cold as a convenience-store Slurpee.

Ice Wine

Our second wine, a 2002 Fixin Crais de Chene from Domaine Rene Bouvier (70 euros), also had a terminal case of frostbite.

It would be nice to think that all French sommeliers know how to store and serve wine. They don't. Poorly prepared wines splashed out by indifferent sommeliers have sadly become something of a trend at many high-priced Parisian restaurants.

Apicius -- which boasts two Michelin stars -- is a costly example of how distinguished cooking can be ruined by great wines permitted to go bad. The solution is to visit Apicius at least eight hours in advance, select the wines from the glacial cave and allow them to achieve room temperature before the meal.

``Apicius is a restaurant for business executives and film producers looking for quiet conversation and grand French cuisine with a difference,'' Magre says. ``Who among them has time to call ahead and select a wine? You expect it to be served correctly.''

Lobster Is Hot

Two visits to Apicius show the best liquid refreshment it has on tap are its sauces. The winner in that category is the grilled lobster accented with a feathery puree of estragon and lobster carpaccio. Priced at 70 euros, Troncon de Homard Bleu au Four Corail Compote, Magre suggests, may well be the signature dish.

Although located amid the hubbub of the 8th Arrondissement, the chateau and its gardens cocoon diners in the ambience of a country tavern decorated in warming orange and brown earth tones. The decor is stylish and subtly emphasized with 17th-century Indian sculptures and 19th-century Flemish paintings.

``From the outside, Apicius appears a bit too sophisticated for tourists or foreigners in Paris on business,'' Magre says. ``Inside, the clientele give it the feel of a neighborhood restaurant, cozy and chic.''

Just forgo the wine list for a bottle of Badoit.

How much? About 120 euros for dinner, same for lunch.

Sound levels? Perfect for quiet conversation.

Special features? Intimate private bar for Ports and cigars.

Private rooms? By arrangement.

Date place? Ask her to marry you over dessert.

Will I go back? Only if allowed to bring my own wine or Apicius hires a knowledgeable sommelier.

Apicius, 20 Rue d'Artois, 75008 Paris. Tel. (33) (1) 4380- 1966 or go to http://www.relaischateaux.com/page.php3?lang=en.

(A. Craig Copetas is a writer for Bloomberg News. The opinions expressed are his own.)

To contact the reporter on this story: A. Craig Copetas in Paris at ccopetas@bloomberg.net.

Last Updated: July 26, 2006 01:05 EDT