By Richard Vines
April 24 (Bloomberg) -- France beat the U.S. and U.K. last night in awards for the world's best restaurants, taking 12 of the top 50 venues. Ferran Adria's El Bulli, in northern Spain, led the list, followed by Heston Blumenthal's Fat Duck, near London, and Pierre Gagnaire, Paris.
Eight of the S.Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants were in the U.S., while the U.K. had seven. Italy and Spain had six each. By city, Paris had the largest number with nine, followed by London with six and New York with four.
The winners, announced in a ceremony at the Science Museum, in London, were picked by 22 panels of writers, critics and chefs from some 75 countries, assembled by Restaurant magazine. The biggest climber was Noma, Copenhagen, and the highest new entry was Alinea, in Chicago.
``The U.K. is doing well with high-end restaurants but not so well in the middle market,'' said Joe Warwick, editor of London-based Restaurant, in an interview. ``We don't have a strong indigenous cuisine but we're very cosmopolitan and very good at ethnic restaurants.''
The French Laundry, in Yountville, California, was fourth last night; Tetsuya's, in Sydney, came fifth; and Bras, in Laguiole, France, was sixth. All top six places were unchanged from last year, when El Bulli overtook the Fat Duck as No. 1.
Not a single London restaurant made the top 10 of the annual awards. The Fat Duck is in Bray, about 30 miles west of London. The top restaurants in the capital were Nobu (17th), Hakkasan (19th) and Gordon Ramsay Royal Hospital Road (24th).
Quirky
Of the five London eateries with two Michelin stars, only Le Gavroche made the top 50. Capital, Petrus, Pied a Terre and the Square were all missing. London establishments in the top 100 included St. John (34th), River Cafe (44th), Maze (55th), Zuma (67th), Indigo (75th), Sketch (78th) and Le Caprice (82nd).
The list is certainly quirky. Bukhara, in New Delhi, voted the best restaurant in Asia year after year, was underwhelming when I tried it last year. No venue in China or Japan is included. Instead, the panelists rank Nobu and Hakkasan in London the world's best representatives of Asian cuisine.
Alice Waters, founder of Chez Panisse, in Berkeley, California, received the Lifetime Achievement award. The Breakthrough award went to Ramsay's Maze restaurant, in London, which was voted No. 54 in the world. The Readers' Choice went to Pied a Terre, London, whose chef, Shane Osborn, holds two Michelin stars.
Restaurant magazine started the awards in 2002 and they now attract chefs and restaurateurs from around the world. Adria, Blumenthal, Gagnaire, Waters and Tetsuya Wakuda were among those who planned to attend last night, the organizers said.
The Top 50: 1. El Bulli Spain 2. The Fat Duck U.K. 3. Pierre Gagnaire France 4. The French Laundry U.S. 5. Tetsuya's Australia 6. Bras France 7. Mugaritz Spain 8. Le Louis XV Monaco 9. Per Se U.S. 10. Arzak Spain 11. El Celler de Can Roca Spain 12. Gambero Rosso Italy 13. L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon France 14. Hof van Cleve Belgium 15. Noma Denmark 16. Le Calandre Italy 17. Nobu London U.K. 18. Jean Georges U.S. 19. Hakkasan U.K. 20. Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athenee France 21. L'Astrance France 22. Can Fabes Spain 23. L'Ambroisie France 24. Restaurant Gordon Ramsay U.K. 25. Troisgros France 26. Le Bernardin USA 27. Martin Berasategui Spain 28. Le Gavroche U.K. 29. Le Cinq France 30. Charlie Trotter's U.S. 31. Dal Pescatore Italy 32. Daniel U.S. 33. Rockpool Australia 34. St. John U.K. 35. Chez Dominique Finland 36. Alinea U.S. 37. Bukhara India 38. DOM Brazil 39. Oaxen Skaergaardskrog Sweden 40. Chez Panisse U.S. 41. Enoteca Pinchiorri Italy 42. Cracco Peck Italy 43. L'Arpege France 44. The River Cafe U.K. 45. Oud Sluis The Netherlands 46. Combal Zero Italy 47. Le Quartier Francais South Africa 48. Taillevent France 49. Bocuse France 50. Les Ambassadeurs France Lifetime Achievement Alice Waters Breakthrough Award Maze, London Readers' Choice Pied a Terre, London
(Richard Vines is London food critic for Bloomberg News. The opinions expressed are his own.)
To contact the reporter on this story: Richard Vines in London at rvines@Bloomberg.net.
Last Updated: April 23, 2007 20:40 EDT
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