Aug. 24 (Bloomberg) -- Zinfandel will soon be designated as California's ``historic wine'' unless Republican Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger vetoes a bill sponsored by Democratic state Senator Carole Migden and passed by the Legislature on Aug. 10.

Migden, who represents part of San Francisco and the wine country of Marin and Sonoma counties, said she wished to honor zinfandel's long, prominent role in helping establish California's wine trade, the grape's adaptability in California vineyards, and the simple fact that the fruit yields a ``darn good bottle'' for about $20.

The governor hasn't taken a position on the bill. But unless he vetoes it by Aug. 29, it becomes law, giving vinicultural bragging rights to zinfandel over cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay and merlot, the three most-planted grapes in the state.

Cabernet producer Darren Procsal, winemaker at Atlas Peak in Napa Valley, at first laughed when told about the likely designation for zinfandel. ``Cab will always be the king in Napa,'' he said. ``But you've got to respect the historic roots of zin. And anytime we get wine in the news, it's a good thing for California.''

Not that zin has gone unnoticed. The grape probably originated in Croatia, and it was brought to the U.S. in the 1820s to Long Island, New York. Its hardiness made it popular with California vintners during the Gold Rush, and many vines survived the phylloxera infestation of the 1890s. Later it became the state's most-planted varietal, especially among the Italians who migrated there in the early 20th century. Today more than 50,000 acres are under cultivation in the U.S.

Multiple Personalities

Still, the virtues that make zin so adaptable and easy to make in almost every style -- from full-bodied, Port-like wines to lightweight white zins -- have kept it out of the spotlight reserved for classic French grapes like cabernet, chardonnay and merlot. These multiple personalities make zin difficult to judge, though there always have been high-end producers who made their mark with big-bodied versions of the varietal.

I tasted eight big red zins this week, revealing wide disparities even at the top. And producers more and more are blending zin with syrah and petite syrah, which add other elements but may detract from zin's essential flavors.

To make a general statement, the taste of zin is very fruity, especially in the nose, with intense raspberry-blackberry flavors and a decided hint of pepper. It's excellent with roast pork and wonderful with not-too-spicy Asian dishes. Spices like cumin, cardamom and mustard seem to the throw the wine off.

Tasting Eight

Here are the eight I tasted:

-- Ridge Lytton Springs 2004 ($27): This has been my benchmark since the 1970s for well-made zinfandel that focuses on the grape's essential flavors. Winemaker Paul Draper knows how to keep the aromas of fruit beautiful, the smoothness and balance of acids and tannin ideal for the varietal, and his addition of 18 percent petite syrah and 3 percent carignane in 2004 brings a lively, spicy addition to the blend. It will likely get even better with another two or three years of aging.

-- Turley Wine Cellars Juvenile 2004 ($40): While Helen Turley is famous for the red-hot zins she makes or consults on for other wineries, Turley Wine Cellars is owned by her brother Larry and the wines are made by Ehren Jordan. This is big and plummy, more like cherry cough syrup than wine at 16.1 percent alcohol, and it lacks an acid bite. It's smooth and velvety but not particularly interesting; after one glass, you may not be able to drink another.

-- Carlisle Dry Creek Valley 2004 ($40): Made, like many top zins, from old vines in Santa Rosa, with a bit of petite syrah added in, this is an inky wine right now, not in the flush of youth but waiting to mature. Give it time.

Good Balance, Good Buy

-- Rosenblum Cellars Vintners Cuvee XXVIII, no vintage ($9): Nicely mellow, with lots of good fruit and balance. Veterinarian Kent Rosenblum makes a wide range of three dozen wines, but the zins are his best. And for nine bucks a bottle, you can't go wrong. Drink it with anything but seafood.

-- Bookster 2005 ($25): Bottled by Sherbrooke Cellars in Santa Rosa, this has real zin flavors, with a medium body that makes it ideal for appetizers like charcuterie and cheeses as well as salmon and chicken dishes. A good price for a good wine.

-- Robert Biale Vineyards Zappa 2003 ($45): An absurd Napa Valley fruit bomb, all out of whack, with a wearying 15.7 percent alcohol, making it closer to Port than table wine. It's a mixed bag of 65 percent zin, 18 percent petite syrah, and 17 percent syrah.

-- Storybook Mountain Vineyards Eastern Exposure 2002 ($38): This is a splendid Napa Valley organic red from Calistoga, lush, with aromas of ripe berries and a fine, long finish with sufficient tannin to keep it interesting. But, curiously enough, it doesn't taste all that much like traditional zin.

-- Seghesio Home Ranch 2004 ($40): Seghesio has been making good wine since 1885, and, next to the Ridge, this was my favorite -- a warm, full-bodied, not overly extracted zin with real style and complexity. It's a very good argument that zin is neither an aperitif nor an after-dinner cordial. You drink this with food, from pastas to lamb chops.

(John Mariani writes on wine for Bloomberg News. The opinions expressed are his own.)

To contact the writer on this story: John Mariani at john@johnmariani.com.

Last Updated: August 24, 2006 13:57 EDT