Nov. 3 (Bloomberg) -- Want to feel special, eat special and mumble? Try Iggy's in Singapore.

This gem of a restaurant at The Regent Hotel in downtown Singapore serves modern European and Asian fare so painstakingly sourced, conceived and prepared, it's not hard to see why it topped Miele's first list of the region's finest eateries. Results of the Miele Guide, released on Nov. 1, rated Iggy's above even French chef Joel Robuchon's Asian outlets (ranked second, 6th and 13th) and culinary institutions like Hong Kong's Yung Kee (8th) and Fook Lam Moon (18th).

Named after founder Ignatius Chan, Iggy's is a foodie's -- rather than a lover's -- paradise. The L-shaped bar that seats 13 puts everyone at close, potentially meal-wrecking, ear range -- not ideal for intimate conversation.

Good thing then that that the food is such a talking point.

Of the three dinner set menus (there's no a la carte) I went for the Table d'Hote at S$205 ($136) -- four courses supplemented by four amuse-bouches, a liqueur and straight-from-the-oven mini- baguettes and olive bread.

Fresh, fancy and flavorsome, pretty much everything hit the spot. Standouts included super-thin cappellini with tiny Sakura shrimp in scampi oil and seaweed -- a perfect Asian twist on seafood pasta -- and the caribe tart with mascarpone ice-cream, which took chocolate desserts to a level few achieve.

A choice of 12 wines-by-the-glass means you could easily match your drink with the array of flavors whizzing past. The wine list reflects Chan's grounding as a sommelier and his love for Burgundy and Riesling, though anyone tempted by claret could nab a 1950 Chateau La Fleur at S$20,888.

Small Portions

Diners hoping for a bulkier main course might be disappointed; a fried egg would have been big enough to completely obscure my delicious pan-fried quail and braised red cabbage. Yet the constant stream of tasty morsels eventually fills one up.

Some of the more pleasant experiences came between courses: light and tangy seaweed-and-prawn crackers; foie gras mousse with sesame oil in a martini glass; mozzarella flown in from Italy twice weekly; and orange sorbet that's as refreshing as it gets.

Capping it all was a banana liqueur containing a globule of yoghurt that softened the sensation as it ruptured in the mouth - - and left you wondering what would happen if the teenage alcopop brigade got their hands on the recipe.

In a country where good service is often a missing ingredient at fine restaurants, Iggy's shone. From a personal greeting to enthusiastic informed rundowns of dishes, the staff's well-doing added to the feeling of well-being.

A separate room seats 16 and there are another two private rooms, all a better bet than the counter for those wanting intimacy with their dining partner. I found myself self- consciously mumbling and subconsciously listening to movie critiques by my neighbors.

It could have been worse; they could have been discussing the dismal financial markets. But the only slump I saw were the shoulders of diners satisfied with a meal to remember.

Iggy's, The Regent Singapore, Level 3, 1 Cuscaden Road, Singapore. Tel. +65-6732-2234.

The Bloomberg Questions

Cost? With wine, S$660 for two.

Sound level? Subdued.

Private room? Yes.

Inside tip? Full-on foodies should take the counter; anyone wanting privacy should try the other rooms.

Special feature? Strip of window onto the kitchen.

Date place? For foodie couples, yes.

Will I be back? Yes.

Rating? ***

What the Stars Mean
****         Incomparable food, service, ambience.
***          First-class of its kind.
**           Good, reliable.
*            Fair.
(no stars)   Poor.

(Grant Clark writes for Bloomberg News. Opinions expressed are his own.)

To contact the writer on the story: Grant Clark in Singapore at gclark@bloomberg.net

Last Updated: November 2, 2008 11:00 EST