March 13 (Bloomberg) -- Next time I visit Anthos, a pricey new Greek spot in midtown Manhattan, I want to see color photos on the menu -- same as in a Chinese takeout joint.

Since dinner for two costs about $200, patrons deserve evidence of the pleasures, and cautions, that follow.

A few snapshots would have clued me in to the small size of raw starters. A tasting of tuna, yellowtail and scallop costs $18 and disappears in three bites. Maine shrimp, silky and translucent, arrive next to a small mound of Tasmanian crab and sea urchin. Four modest mouthfuls for $20. I watched a couple at the bar devour each dish in three minutes.

Anthos shouldn't be shy about nudging its patrons to order an extra course, like one of the larger, cheaper cooked appetizers. Or try the seven-course tasting menu, a steal at $85.

When co-owner Donatella Arpaia opened Anthos, she brought along the barstools, a few lounge chairs and chef Michael Psilakis from Dona, a popular Mediterranean spot that closed in January because the building's landlord sold the property to a developer. Dona was stark white and yellow; Anthos is white with hints of soft pink.

Those expecting strongly flavored Greek fare should look elsewhere. The key approach at Anthos is restraint -- perhaps too much.

Sea urchin roe has a powerful, musty ocean-taste, but it was barely discernible amid the salty crab. Some will appreciate the balance. Others will yearn for verve.

No Kick

I had to work hard to detect the signature iodine kick of pan-fried mullet. A tasting of yogurt in a dessert exhibited more gelatin than tang.

An olive-oil bath results in moist John Dory, but where's the fruity, grassy taste of pressed olives? Pork belly was perfectly rendered with silky fat, but what makes it Greek? (That's a $38 question.)

Our dinner for two, which included two appetizers, two entrees, two desserts, and two glasses of wine each, cost $191.

Anthos is at 36 W. 52nd St., between Fifth and Sixth avenues. Information: +1-212-582-6900.

Faster Food

Fine dining can test the patience of even the most steadfast gourmand. I've spent close to four hours at a time working my way through tasting menus at Varietal, Urena and Per Se.

Amalia, located in Vikram Chatwal's Dream Hotel on West 55th Street, bucks the marathon-dining trend. My Thursday night dinner at the Mediterranean-themed venue lasted just over an hour.

I arrived about 7 p.m., and within 10 minutes I was negotiating a plate of tuna with pickled onions and tangerine. A gigantic pork chop, smoked and brined, came at 7:30. By 8 p.m. I was polishing off a tasting of three different creme brulees and signing the bill.

Surely, I got lucky.

So on Saturday night, I repeated the experiment. First came a bowl of red pepper soup. Then there was crispy chicken stuffed with chorizo. I threw in a side of fries. Then bananas wrapped in shredded wheat and paired with lemon frozen yogurt.

Fifty-two minutes. I promise I wasn't rushing.

How was the fast food? Inoffensive and forgettable. This is where you want to eat when you're trapped near Times Square. You won't complain, but probably won't be enthralled enough to return.

Candles Everywhere

Amalia looks as if an episode of ``Sex and the City'' had been filmed there. Candles flicker everywhere: on windowsills, bathroom floors, tables, walls. (Tip your waiter extra; he probably has burns on his hands.) Renaissance-style paintings of semi-nude folks hang above you.

Downstairs, a low-ceilinged lounge will soon serve ridiculous cocktails (available now upstairs) like a frat-party mixture of absinthe, Citronge, Metaxa 5-star and Calvados. Feel like a margarita? Saffron-citrus salt coats the side of the glass, not just the rim, so your lower lip is coated with the acidic substance.

My Thursday night dinner for one cost $75. My Saturday night dinner cost $83. I had two drinks at each session.

Amalia is at 204 W. 55th St., between Seventh Avenue and Broadway. Information: +1-212-245-1234.

(Ryan Sutton is a writer for Bloomberg News. The opinions expressed are his own.)

To contact the writer of this story: Ryan Sutton in New York at rsutton1@bloomberg.net.

Last Updated: March 13, 2007 00:06 EDT