April 24 (Bloomberg) -- The Time Warner Center, home to New York's most expensive dining destinations, has finally set up an affordable, all-day eatery.

Marc Murphy's Landmarc, famous for its reasonably priced food and wine, opened a second location on Time Warner's third floor last week.

It's a bistro, so expect everything. Nine salads. Five steaks, six if you count portobello. Lots of fish. Raw bar. Oysters, mussels, clams and snails. Like offal? There's liver, sweetbreads. Also marrow, and blood -- in the boudin noir.

Landmarc is open from 7 a.m. till 2 a.m. It's the only member of Time Warner's ``Restaurant Collection'' to serve breakfast, lunch and dinner.

It also delivers.

How cheap is Landmarc? It's a downright bargain when compared with the other venues at Time Warner. Dinner at Cafe Gray or Porter House New York costs about $100 per person. A trip to Thomas Keller's Per Se or Masa Takayama's eponymous sushi temple can easily approach $1,000 for two.

At Landmarc, I had an $18 breakfast, a $44 delivery lunch and a $70 dinner. All in one day.

Sunlight poured into Landmarc on Friday morning. East- facing windows give most patrons some view of Central Park South. Big black beams grid the glass.

The 320-seat restaurant was largely empty as the workday started; I was hoping to catch Friday slackers nursing hangovers with thick, spicy Bloody Marys (mine was virgin).

The breakfast menu is a clone of the Tribeca Landmarc's -- and so are the prices. Same goes for lunch, dinner and delivery.

Build Breakfast

The kitchen dishes out typical breakfast fare such as French toast, pancakes, quiche, but also a build-it-yourself sandwich. I asked the kitchen to stuff eggs, ratatouille, chorizo and cheddar between two English muffins. Hash browns too? Sure. It was a whole lot uglier than a picture-perfect Egg McMuffin, but the clarity (and quality) of flavors was startling.

At 2 p.m. I was ready for another go. The ``feed-me-at- home'' zone stretches north to 66th Street, south to 55th, west to West End Avenue and east to Fifth Avenue. If you're a banker on Park, you're out of luck -- unless you pick up your delivery on the corner of 59th and Madison, as I did.

Lunch arrived in 35 minutes. How did Landmarc beat midtown traffic? The delivery guy walked.

Strip steak was gas-grilled -- not incinerated by a broiler. The meat was medium-rare, juicy and seasoned. It came with golden fries and a salad. Marrow bones were beefy and gelatinous; the requisite sea salt arrived in a plastic container.

Whew. Then came dinner.

Industrial Space

Nearly all of Landmarc's seats were occupied at 7 p.m. The industrial-like space is filled with hardwood tables and rusted metals. Even at capacity, the room felt spacious.

Fifteen minutes later, I was seated near floor-to-ceiling windows that overlooked not Central Park but the Armani Exchange. Yes, you're in a mall.

Families, with well-behaved toddlers, made up an impressive part of the clientele. Dads played peek-a-boo, kids licked ice- cream cones. Children's-menu items are $6 each.

My dinner included a half bottle of riesling ($14), a half order of rock shrimp risotto (with creamy lobster-butter), a T.G.I. Friday's-size portion of crispy, creamy sweetbreads, a trio of sorbet cones and a lemon tart.

Time Warner Center is at 10 Columbus Circle. Information: +1-212-823-6123; http://www.landmarc-restaurant.com/twc.

Expensive Diner

Gold St. is a brand-new diner that serves financial- district denizens sliders and sushi 24 hours a day, seven days a week. For that convenience, thank Harry and Peter Poulakakos, the father-son team who brought us Harry's Steak, Adrienne's Pizza Bar and the Financier patisseries.

Now, a few clarifications.

Gold St. serves breakfast all day. That means Gold St. serves eggs all day. Pancakes, French toast and waffles are available only until 11 a.m.

Drinks are expensive. A top-shelf martini set us back $13. That's as much as high-end cocktail joints like Flatiron Lounge.

How does the place look? Like a diner should. Gold tiles. Bucket seats. Neon.

The grub is cheap. How did it taste? Like diner food.

That means macaroni was too greasy. Tuna tacos were too spicy. Toro tartare? Too fishy. Meatloaf? Too herby. Roast pork? Too chewy. House-made donuts? Too doughy. Margaritas? Too sweet. Homemade pie? Too soupy.

Is this a bad thing? Not necessarily. Diner food is supposed to be too much. It sits in your stomach. It fills you up. It's a guilty pleasure -- with more guilt than pleasure. In other words, it's just about right.

Our four-course dinner for two, which included two drinks apiece, cost $135. Gold St. is at 2 Gold St., between Maiden Lane and Platt. Information: +1-212-747-0797.

(Ryan Sutton is a writer for Bloomberg News. The opinions expressed are his own.)

To contact the writer of this story: Ryan Sutton in New York at rsutton1@bloomberg.net.

Last Updated: April 24, 2007 00:03 EDT