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Richard Vines
Twenty Top Chefs to Cook at $10,000-a-Table Charity: Food Buzz

By Richard Vines


Oct. 23 (Bloomberg) -- “Who’s Cooking Dinner” has been one of the most exclusive events in the London food world for more than a decade: Top chefs prepare a meal for diners who may also bid for the culinary masters to cook at their homes.

There are 20 tables -- going for 6,000 pounds (about $10,000) each -- at this dinner for the leukemia charity Leuka. They were once as hard to get as a prime-time reservation at Marcus Wareing. That was then, and this is now.

Chris Corbin, the restaurateur who chairs the event, said over coffee at the Wolseley that he’s hoping to bring in new diners. While it’s all for a charitable cause, the reasons for widening the guest list aren’t entirely altruistic: Eleven tables have gone so far, and there are nine more to sell.

Helene Darroze, Philip Howard (of The Square) and Brett Graham will be among the 20 chefs at the next dinner, to be held at the Langham on March 8. For information, click http://www.whoscookingdinner.com/index2.html

Marco Pierre White has closed Luciano and this week opened Wheeler’s of St. James’s, a fish restaurant, in its place. I’m going in tonight, and don’t know quite what to expect. White has done little publicity, other than telling me a month ago that he planned to open a Wheeler’s somewhere. The Web site isn’t up and running yet.

The fancy chocolate shop Cocomaya opens a bakery on Oct. 29. It’s the baby of Agent Provocateur founder Serena Rees and fashion pals Walid Al Damirji and Joel Bernstein, so expect some racy cakes: 12 Connaught Street, W2 2AF. Tel. +44-20-7706-2770 or click http://www.cocomaya.co.uk/. Primrose Bakery, which claims Jude Law among its customers in Primrose Hill, has opened in Covent Garden: 42 Tavistock Street, WC2E 7PB. Tel. +44-20- 7836 3638 or http://www.primrosebakery.org.uk/. The Canary Wharf branch of Canteen has opened serving British cuisine: Unit 2, Park Pavilion, 40 Canada Square, London E14 5FW. Tel. +44-845- 686-1122 or click on http://www.canteen.co.uk/.

The Princess Dining Room has died. Long live the Princess of Shoreditch. This pub-eatery on the edge of the City has been taken over, renamed and refurbished by Scott Hunter of Loungelover and Maria Larsen of Corney & Barrow. They have brought in a French chef, Benoit Doutres of Moulin de Mougins, on the Cote d’Azur, promising modern British food with a Gallic twist. 76 Paul Street, EC2A 4NE. Tel. +44-20-7729-9270 or click on http://www.theprincessofshoreditch.com/.

Restaurateur Oliver Peyton is giving hungry art lovers the chance to combine dinner with a private view of the Damien Hirst show at the Wallace Collection. The Friday and Saturday dinners cost 45 pounds or 55 pounds, depending on the menu. See http://www.thewallacerestaurant.co.uk/special-offers.htm. Peyton is busy. He’s just opened the Espresso Bar at the British Library, 96 Euston Road, NW1 2DB.

Good times are here again. Effortless Eating, a food- delivery service, is offering “Honey Bones” as a treat for your pet. These canine nibbles are made of whole-wheat flour, wheat germ, honey, vegetable oil, egg and sesame seeds. The price: 16 pounds for a pack. Or you may prefer biscuits for humans, shaped like poodles, dachshunds, and other breeds. They cost 22 pounds per pack.

Champor-Champor, a quirky and enjoyable fusion restaurant near London Bridge, is planning a three-course festive menu at 31 pounds for lunch and 36 pounds for dinner. Dishes include a starter of rabbit wontons in Chinese herbal soup; a main of roast ostrich fillet marinated in white peppercorns and red wine, braised snake beans, lentil and sweet potatoes; plus vegan and vegetarian options. Click http://www.champor-champor.com/.

Richard Corrigan, Claude Bosi and Peyton were among the chefs who turned up at Hix for the launch of “Galley Slave,” a free newsletter that mixes restaurant news with recruitment ads. It’s set up by Joe Warwick, former editor of “Restaurant.” Warwick’s irreverence has won him friends in a world where you’re only as good as your next free meal.

Silvena Rowe, the Bulgarian-born TV chef known for her Eastern European dishes and accent, is looking for corporate clients. She’s offering her cooking services as well as vodka and sake tastings, and hopes to open a restaurant. Rowe appears regularly on “Saturday Kitchen” on BBC TV. Heston Blumenthal of the Fat Duck has written the introduction to her next book, “Purple Citrus and Sweet Perfume.” E-mail: silvenacuisine@btinternet.com.

Blumenthal is the latest chef to sign up for “Taste of Christmas,” the winter equivalent of “Taste of London,” when restaurants present samples of their food. I heard all about it during a peripatetic meal laid on for journalists. The starter was at L’Anima. Then there was a tasting of Boutinot wines in a black cab -- the driver looked surprised as we climbed aboard with our glasses filled -- followed by courses at Club Gascon, the Modern Pantry and Eastside Inn. http://www.tasteofchristmas.com/2009/.

Gordon Ramsay’s World Kitchen” (Quadrille, 20 pounds) may turn up in your stocking at Christmas. A TV campaign is planned for this collection of recipes from “The F-Word” show as well as a serialization in the Daily Mail. The book features dishes such as sweet corn and crab soup, tabbouleh and Madras curry. As a one-stop shop for diverse cuisines, it looks so handy, I might even think about doing some cooking.

Jan Moir has attracted thousands of complaints over her comments in the Daily Mail on Stephen Gately. She focused on the pop star’s homosexuality and described the circumstances of his death as “sleazy.” So who is she? Step forward the former restaurant critic of the Daily Telegraph and creator of the (now idle) Web site, “Are You Ready to Order?”

(Richard Vines is the chief food critic for Bloomberg News. Opinions expressed are his own.)

To contact the writer on the story: Richard Vines in London at rvines@bloomberg.net.

Last Updated: October 22, 2009 19:00 EDT

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